Propane on a motorcycle

[JrsPropaneParts]

The tanks have been completed for Propane for some time really not much of a change over from cng to propane if it was the other way around it would be more tough. they weigh about 30% less. They are just designed to last longer. They do not rust the only thing that can go bad is the valve OPD valve.

I have a few companies I buy direct from as I wholesale the tanks Let me look around tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Give me a bit more info tho..... Are you planning on going duel fuel ? One thing to consider is the amount of Lp you will actually get into a tank that will fit on the back of your bike depending on how big ya want to go a #20 lb hold off the top of my head like 4.7 gallons. So fuel capacity might be something to consider. So can you give me MAXIMUM dimensions you have to fit a tank ? Do you want to custom make brackets for the tank or wanting to buy pre made ?

I wholesale both of the fiberglass tanks one company is better looking than the other and on the one brand ( sorry gotta watch what I say lol ) you can actually remove the plastic casing the casing is just more of an added feature The plastic isnt doing the job the fiberglass is. I am looking at a 25# tank now its green fiber glass with a white plastic looks like 2 screws and plastic comes off I dont know if you can paint the remaining material tho ?? any Idea on that ? im not much of a painter

I have never seen a valve that offers both Liquid and or vapor withdrawal id be interested in seeing that myself lol Liquid with draw has a dip tube that actually pulls liquid from the bottom of the tank. Vapor withdraw is pulled with no tube and pulled from the top of the tank.

I am not sure where else you would put it besides on the back of the bike near where a passenger would sit. I am not trying to promote my company but if you look for my company's Facebook there is actually a picture of a motorcycle with a tank on the back

Last but not least Do you have a fuel system for your bike yet if so what system are you running ?

If you went with an aluminum tank you could even have a paint job done on it to match the bike !

[geraldm]

The only thing that matters is the correct tank orientation. It will have a specific bottom and top. The distance does not matter for your application, or the position (high or low). Since propane is a pressurized fuel it will deliver no matter where the tank is located. As a liquid that is vapourized by the heated regulator is expands 270 times as it changes from a gas to a vapour. The only consideration would be a larger supply line for really long distances. example 50 to 100 feet or an application that requires a large amount of fuel in a very short time. Your application should be fine with the standard 3/8 ID fuel line commonly used.

Thanks C3H8 kinda what I figured but thought I better check .

[geraldm]

Just received all my Impco conversion parts , and looking at my Holley base plate I noticed that the throttle plate is mounted to the throttle shaft with 2 good sized screws ,that have some king of thread lock on them .. However looking at the top of the throttle plate where the screws come through there is no sign of swedge ( new word here ) marks on the end of the screws to keep the screws from coming all the way out if they happen to come loose .

Now the harmonics of my little engine at wot is very high , it has the capability of loosening larger bolts that have been torqued as well as small bolts , I have lost everything from starter bolts to solenoid bolts , coil mounts , screws on switches , even the K-N cone filter ( that is held firmly in place by a bracket )spins on the 500 Holley at a rate of maybe 20 RPM's at wot )this is not caused by detectable vibration as the little engine runs smooth and strong at any throttle setting . IMO most of this problem is caused by exhaust and Induction sound . As a result there is locktite applied to every bolt and nut on the bike to stop this problem with good success

So my question is simply this , Has anyone ever had problems with these throttle plate screws coming loose on high RPM application 7000- 8000 RPM range and if so what have you done to overcome this problem . Any thoughts on this ..?? thank-you .

[bumpstart]

thats a good point ,, i think maybe it has star washers,, but myself doubt they are worth gambling on,, and must be bad for airflow

a combination of thread sealant and star washer might be Ok,, it is a bit subjective from here through
maybe you can replace and countersink and wire pin the excess thread on other side
.. or maybe cross drill the screw there now,, and use some nickel twist wire or fine winding wire
im also wondering if there is some sort of phelonic spacer between manifold and throttle plate that would assist against some vibration

[geraldm]

thats a good point ,, i think maybe it has star washers,, but myself doubt they are worth gambling on,, and must be bad for airflow

a combination of thread sealant and star washer might be Ok,, it is a bit subjective from here through
maybe you can replace and countersink and wire pin the excess thread on other side
.. or maybe cross drill the screw there now,, and use some nickel twist wire or fine winding wire
im also wondering if there is some sort of phelonic spacer between manifold and throttle plate that would assist against some vibration

No star washers just some clear thread locker under the head , I can't tell if there is any on the threads but still . I need to do something with this or it will kill me thinking about it , I will ponder on it for a couple days and post me thoughts .

POINT !!! The newer style Holley throttle plates and probably others now also , have 3 or 4 pressed indentations and are fitted in an off set slot in the throttle shaft rather than using screws My new 500 is like that .. Big feather in their hat !!! that thing could never come out of there on it's own and is held firmly in place but with a little care are very easy to remove and even easier to replace .

. Maybe I just making a big deal over nothing . If my engine splodes because of me ripping its guts out that is one thing I can live with that but to rip it to hell with a screw ?? No thanks I know what the little engine is capable of , it could probably spin the top off a whiskey bottle in 200 ft. . I have some stainless wire for I think tying of aircraft bolts and nuts but me thinks is a little large for this . Maybe I will just turn him upside support the shaft and do 3 or 4 nice little center dots around each screw with my tiny center punch that way if they do come loose It will keep them from coming totally undone ..

I could buy a new heat isolator for the 500 they are of a composite design and should help , can't see it doing any harm.



My bad there is a pair of star washers on the throttle plate but still ..

[geraldm]

[quote="JrsPropaneParts"]The tanks have been completed for Propane for some time really not much of a change over from cng to propane if it was the other way around it would be more tough. they weigh about 30% less. They are just designed to last longer. They do not rust the only thing that can go bad is the valve OPD valve.

I have a few companies I buy direct from as I wholesale the tanks Let me look around tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Give me a bit more info tho..... Are you planning on going duel fuel ? One thing to consider is the amount of Lp you will actually get into a tank that will fit on the back of your bike depending on how big ya want to go a #20 lb hold off the top of my head like 4.7 gallons. So fuel capacity might be something to consider. So can you give me MAXIMUM dimensions you have to fit a tank ? Do you want to custom make brackets for the tank or wanting to buy pre made ?

I wholesale both of the fiberglass tanks one company is better looking than the other and on the one brand ( sorry gotta watch what I say lol ) you can actually remove the plastic casing the casing is just more of an added feature The plastic isnt doing the job the fiberglass is. I am looking at a 25# tank now its green fiber glass with a white plastic looks like 2 screws and plastic comes off I dont know if you can paint the remaining material tho ?? any Idea on that ? im not much of a painter

I have never seen a valve that offers both Liquid and or vapor withdrawal id be interested in seeing that myself lol Liquid with draw has a dip tube that actually pulls liquid from the bottom of the tank. Vapor withdraw is pulled with no tube and pulled from the top of the tank.

I am not sure where else you would put it besides on the back of the bike near where a passenger would sit. I am not trying to promote my company but if you look for my company's Facebook there is actually a picture of a motorcycle with a tank on the back

Last but not least Do you have a fuel system for your bike yet if so what system are you running ?

If you went with an aluminum tank you could even have a paint job done on it to match the bike ![/quote

SORRY I missed this post

No duel fuel gasoline is just not friendly with this machine ( to much heat )
I would use about 8 inch max. maybe a little more for diameter and 16 or so inches long .

Location on the bike is going to depend on how and where my turbo will be . if the turbo is out to the side then the tank will be on the opposite side to help balance things or it ends up looking like you are riding with a side wind so me needs to build my own brackets to fit where ever the bottle needs to be located .

if you have pics of some of the smaller stuff please feel free to post them here , I don't have a problem with that at all so long as the mods don't mind .. the info will always be available for future guys doing a bike conversion .. Like I mentioned before anything goes in my threads so long as were not pissing in someones cornflakes .
thanks have a good one .