Alternator interference

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darren
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:19 am

Alternator interference

Post by darren »

I have electrical interference that is causing my eco fuel valve to operate improperly.
When I select gasoline and its running on gasoline , I take the servo out of its hose the barrel is erratically
moving around . Now I took off the big positive off the alternator stud , so is running just off battery .
Servo is just sitting still as it should now , I put an external condenser on the alternator but that did not help.

Any suggestions on how to clean up my 12vdc power?

C3H8
Posts: 1129
Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:23 pm
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Re: Alternator interference

Post by C3H8 »

This was an issue on early models of the ECO FMS systems. In later models additional shielding was added to wire cabling to prevent this. I don't have the instructions anymore, however I do remember some cautions about taking care to place the components away from devices that could cause electrical fields (coils, alternators, etc.) if possible. I can suggest several things without any guarantees they will work.
- The very first is the alternator. Is it generating a field stronger then normal for some reason.
- Relocate the power valve as far from the alternator as possible.
- Check the vehicle ground. Corrosion here can cause high resistance and more noise.
- Check the ground(S) of your FMS and make sure they are really good. I believe it is grounded to a computer ground on the OEM ECU and also under the dash.
- Try grounding the case of the electronic power valve.
- Is there anything you can use to shield the valve and its wires.

I found this interesting article on EMF noise. There might be something in here that can help.
http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999501.pdf

Steptoe
Posts: 1504
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:32 pm
Location: JAFA , New Zealand

Re: Alternator interference

Post by Steptoe »

How many miles has the alternater done?
could very well be u have some play in the bearings / bushes.. this then results in the distance between the armature and magnets varing and can have some weird things happen, including inconstant charging.
The bearing also results in issues of consistent contact between the brushes and the commutator part of the armature... the copper strips they ride on..
Other than removing the pulley.. high torque on that end bolt.. re building is pretty straight forward.
Mark the case as to how the 2 1/2 match together , otherwise the mounts will be wrong when reassembled
A kit is cheap...replacing the bearings straight forward.
There are holes to hold the bushes in place while slipping back over the armature with couple bits of wire
And if dont have a lath to turn down the communicator part... some 280 to 360 wet and dry sand paper and a leather boot strap.
Wet the commutator and sand paper with kero (paraffin) wrap the leather boot strap around about 3 times , garb each end and pull alternatively which spins the strip of sand paper.

Wash everything down with kero and blow dry , reassemble.

Checking diodes etc is far more involved, thu these generally are pretty bullet proof....bad doides u will know about because the alternator will not be working to start off with ...
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'

storm
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:10 pm
Location: NSW, Australia

Re: Alternator interference

Post by storm »

Steptoe wrote:Wash everything down with kero and blow dry , reassemble.
Please don't do this, washing electronic parts down with kero is a no no, use a proper electronic parts cleaner or an alcohol based fluid to clean with. The reason for this is alcohol based fluids and electronic parts cleaner fluids evaporate away and are gone, oil based fluids such as kero leave traces behind and can cause problems if the person doing the work has not made sure every nook and crany is perfectly clear of any reside.
Fuel flow requirements calculations
Engine air flow requirement calculation: CFM = Cubic Inches x RPM x Volumetric Efficiency (VE) ÷ 3456

Steptoe
Posts: 1504
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:32 pm
Location: JAFA , New Zealand

Re: Alternator interference

Post by Steptoe »

Please note my comment blow dry....
Kero , by the time u have blown 99% out, re assembled.. mounted in the car, fired up and alternator warmed up any remaining kero will have long gone
And kero doesn't attack in anyway the liquor coatings on electronic equipment if any remains... but if any significant amount is remaining and ?If the alternator manages to start up, get to an operational temp, and If there is enough remaining that has not yet been blown out by the alternator fans, the fumes on the most remote of chances after all these ifs, could possibly flash.
And if it does then the chances of that flash doing any damage at all are still extremely slim.

Do not use a solvent like turps which has a evaporation temp much higher.

Also of note , for maybe 1/2 century or more kero was used in this application without any issues... till the marketing guys with all their propaganda BS come along telling us what we have been doing successfully for decades cant be done anymore but must use THEIR more expensive products
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'

storm
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:10 pm
Location: NSW, Australia

Re: Alternator interference

Post by storm »

Steptoe wrote:Please note my comment blow dry....
I did and I still felt a need to post that this method is not the correct method.

Alcohol has been around for thousands of years mineral based cleaners are less than 200 years old. All the marketing started with the escalation of consumerism which was fed by the newly developed automobile culture. I don't understand why the same tactic used to inform people of a safer method using a product that has been around for thousands of years is a problem.

Alcohol based cleaners evaporate leaving no traces at all without a need to "blow dry".
Mineral based cleaners do leave traces and if, which your reply to my word of caution has many (5) ifs, it isn't done properly you will still have traces of mineral based cleaners in the alternator.
My post was a word of caution, I have seen a newly reassembled alternator on fire in a car because of a that's good enough attitude. The alternator fan just fed the flame.
You do whatever you want with your vehicles and post whatever you want to post. If I disagree with you I will post my disagreement and along with that post why and what I would do instead.
Fuel flow requirements calculations
Engine air flow requirement calculation: CFM = Cubic Inches x RPM x Volumetric Efficiency (VE) ÷ 3456

bumpstart
Posts: 133
Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:09 pm

Re: Alternator interference

Post by bumpstart »

try a 0.1uF 50V capacitor on the power wire for the solenoid.. to earth
when the going is hard, don't retard, remember your lubrication

darren
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:19 am

Re: Alternator interference

Post by darren »

What soleniod are you speaking of?

bumpstart
Posts: 133
Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:09 pm

Re: Alternator interference

Post by bumpstart »

your electronic power valve ..
the cap will bleed some frequencies of EMF noise coming along the power wire to ground
when the going is hard, don't retard, remember your lubrication

C3H8
Posts: 1129
Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:23 pm
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Re: Alternator interference

Post by C3H8 »

Bumpstart is referring to your inline power valve which is the black aluminum case housing the motor that controls the power valve piston.

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