Hi folks
i went and started my gmc s15 it ran for about and hour before i got in to drive away. I stalled it when i went to take off and now i cant get it running there is spark and it has propane can some one please help.
vaille typeD
Re: vaille typeD
I can probably help. I've been working on Vialle systems for over 30 years but I need a little more info. According to the heading it is a Type D regulator. That's a start but you say it idled for an hour and then stalled when you tried to drive away. I can suggest two things to check right away. Did you notice any frost on the regulator or surrounding parts when it stalled. If so check your anti freeze level and strength. Second; remove the vapour line from the regulator and using a flashlight look inside the opening on the reg. The coolant section is separated from the vapour section by a diaphragm. If you see anti freeze the diaphragm is ruptured and filled the vapour section with coolant. Once these are checked we get to the basics.
The fuel flow is controlled by the electric lock offs on the rear mounting plate of the convertor and the idle/primer solenoid on top of the regulator. The lock offs are controlled by the electronic module (gray box) next to it.
- Turning your key to the on position you should hear the electric solenoid open. 2 seconds later they will shut off. This is the primer on a Vialle reg. You should also hear fuel hiss into the mixer.
- As soon as you crank the engine the solenoid opens again and allows fuel to flow. If you can't hear the solenoid open use a test light on the green/blk tracer wire to confirm whether power is getting to the solenoids. If it is one of the solenoids is bad or jammed. Usually the coil is shorted out.
- A second problem is sometimes the solenoid shaft gets bent (especially the one on top of the regulator) working on the vehicle and the piston inside can't move once the shaft is bent.
- If no power is getting to the solenoid the problem is the electronic module or the power going to the module. The module has 8 pins but only uses 4 or 5 of them. The module has 4 or five wires.
- Starting on the ground end is a black wire. Check the grounds are good first.
- Next is a black with white tracer to coil negative. This notifies the module the engine is being cranked and running from the negative coil pulse.
- The next is yellow or light green. This is the power into the module. use a test light to confirm power. If there is no power check the fuses.
- If there is power "in" check for power "out" at the final wire at the end opposite the black wire. It should be green or green with a black stripe. There may be two of these side by side. On two wire setups they are both power out. One goes to the main shut off and the other goes to the primer solenoid. On single wire set ups the wire splits to send power to both solenoids. If there is no power out during the first two seconds of key on and while cranking the module is bad. If there is power during the first two seconds but not during cranking check the black with white tracer wire for a good connection at coil negative.
We'll start there and see what you find1.
The fuel flow is controlled by the electric lock offs on the rear mounting plate of the convertor and the idle/primer solenoid on top of the regulator. The lock offs are controlled by the electronic module (gray box) next to it.
- Turning your key to the on position you should hear the electric solenoid open. 2 seconds later they will shut off. This is the primer on a Vialle reg. You should also hear fuel hiss into the mixer.
- As soon as you crank the engine the solenoid opens again and allows fuel to flow. If you can't hear the solenoid open use a test light on the green/blk tracer wire to confirm whether power is getting to the solenoids. If it is one of the solenoids is bad or jammed. Usually the coil is shorted out.
- A second problem is sometimes the solenoid shaft gets bent (especially the one on top of the regulator) working on the vehicle and the piston inside can't move once the shaft is bent.
- If no power is getting to the solenoid the problem is the electronic module or the power going to the module. The module has 8 pins but only uses 4 or 5 of them. The module has 4 or five wires.
- Starting on the ground end is a black wire. Check the grounds are good first.
- Next is a black with white tracer to coil negative. This notifies the module the engine is being cranked and running from the negative coil pulse.
- The next is yellow or light green. This is the power into the module. use a test light to confirm power. If there is no power check the fuses.
- If there is power "in" check for power "out" at the final wire at the end opposite the black wire. It should be green or green with a black stripe. There may be two of these side by side. On two wire setups they are both power out. One goes to the main shut off and the other goes to the primer solenoid. On single wire set ups the wire splits to send power to both solenoids. If there is no power out during the first two seconds of key on and while cranking the module is bad. If there is power during the first two seconds but not during cranking check the black with white tracer wire for a good connection at coil negative.
We'll start there and see what you find1.
Re: vaille typeD
i did not notice that but when i got it home. and put in garage and let it warm up. i took the one nut off that has a wire filter in it and it was bone dry. when i turn key on i can here it click and a here the hiss and i can smell the propane. when i go and crank it over thats all it does is turn over. i changed all spark plugs and wires as well.
Re: vaille typeD
OK. The filter I am assuming you are referring to is the one in the top of the reg under the 3/4" brass cap. This filter should look dry. It is attached to the cap with left hand threads and in the center of the filter are some small magnets to catch liny iron graphite that is in the fuel sometimes. Dry is a normal condition since the fuel is a vapour by the time it flows through there. It protects the idle orifice under the primer solenoid. The idle orifice is only .030" in diameter and can plug if the iron graphite gets to it.
You say you can hear fuel so the engine should run if other factors are correct as long as it is not flooding. There is a slight possibility the engine flooded really bad if the fuel was not vapourizing properly at the time it stalled. Try disconnecting the main lock off behind the regulator. Just unplug it. Crank the engine over 15 to 20 seconds just to be sure it is not flooding. If it fires plug the lock off back in and try again. If it does not fire again the reg probably has a faulty primary seat.
If it does not fire pour a small amount of gas down the intake or a tiny spray of ether and see if it fires. If it still doesn't fire you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Timing or timing chain, etc.
You say you can hear fuel so the engine should run if other factors are correct as long as it is not flooding. There is a slight possibility the engine flooded really bad if the fuel was not vapourizing properly at the time it stalled. Try disconnecting the main lock off behind the regulator. Just unplug it. Crank the engine over 15 to 20 seconds just to be sure it is not flooding. If it fires plug the lock off back in and try again. If it does not fire again the reg probably has a faulty primary seat.
If it does not fire pour a small amount of gas down the intake or a tiny spray of ether and see if it fires. If it still doesn't fire you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Timing or timing chain, etc.
Re: vaille typeD
I forgot to ask. You say the solenoids click on key on. You did not mention if the power was still at the solenoids when cranking. You need to be sure there is. Depending on how many times you prime it the engine may be too lean to fire if the solenoids close while cranking. One thing you could try is to prime the engine several times by turning the key off and on. It may flood momentarily but if the solenoids are closing during cranking the engine will fire momentarily and stall. If this happens check the coli negative wire for good connections. If the connections are good the module is at fault. Once you check this I can suggest an easy way to temporarily by pass the module.
Re: vaille typeD
is there anyway u can send me a picture of the lock off u are talking about as this is the first time i have delt with propane and not sure what all the parts are. as i think i have done all the test u told me to do and i did them right i think but still nothing, i have not done the lock off one yet as not sure where or what it is.
thanks
thanks
Re: vaille typeD
Hi everone. I sent digger the pics he wanted through a PM. I had a little trouble getting them to post on line due to the formatting. He seems to have got a handle on the cause of his problem. Perhaps he can bring everyone up to speed on what happened.