Never (re) build an engine before,
OK basic principles.
Do everyting by the book, no 'shortcuts' and clean, that means the bench, stands, tools, floor and surrounding area.
Heads and deck get skimed for flatness
Valve guides and valves if need them...match spings to the cam, replace if do not measure in spec.
Mic the bores to match individual pistons before final hones.
DO NOT ass-u& me (assume) the machinist has machined correctly, the ultimate responsabilty is on the assembler to check tollerances etc are correct...not the machinist, after assembly.
measure bearing and journals for accuracy and plasti gauge
use teflon thread sealler on head /valley cover bolts..espec if they go into the wayer jacket.
replace oil pump, water pump and pull the headers off the radiator and manually clean.....ALL no matter how new they are.
Get the engine dynamically balanced, marking all bolts and holes from flywheel to crank pully...this enables a fast reving, smooth riding, long lasting engine.
Use recommened lubes on the cam, bearing etc...Make sure you have oil pressure and oil to valve train before firing.
Double check everything, the re check again....do not ass-u & me (assume) anything.
Critical engine break in is in the 1st 20 secs of firing, and shortly after as the rings bed in....do not over advance or lean the egine in this period...the most common causes of piston skirt failure/collapse...when fires take stright up to around 2000/2500 rpms and hold there...you should hear/feel the rings bed in.
Some say to fire up on petrol..all my LPG engines I have fired on LPG
Never work on the engine or leave the engine unattended without the valley cover, carb open.
Cleaningness, double check everything, dont assume....I cannot emphisise these basics enough.
Oh and DO NOT use steel wool or scotch bright pads.
Im sure I have missed a few other may like to add.
) i'd like to have fun now and then, giving that Volkswagen Golf VR-6 a hard time at the traffic light...
)