MY TOY

[DODGEN1]

75 W100 440 4X4

[Frank]

Welcome to the board!

I was quite impressed with the nice job you did fabricating your dual mixer adapter back when I first saw it on the RamchargerCentral Forum. Good work.

[Steptoe]

That is real cool...most installs, let alone singe units look very much as a Addon
Everything there looks as if is meant to be there

Your are using the old EC1 covers...obsoleted back in late 80s ???
I still use these, but u have 3 tube going up to it
I thought there are only 2 the right (as looking at the pic) the center, and the one under the brass cover nut was an air vent

[Imperial73]

A very lovely 440!

Can you tell us a bit more about the specs and parts used?

I run a 440 and 383 myself, and I think I wont buy another classic without a Mopar bigblock, really love these engines!

[DODGEN1]

Its a ballance line. ill post some specs later. thanks for the compliments.

[DODGEN1]

you want spects on the engine or the caburation?

EC1 covers 2 425s with the EC1 cones orange springs 5000-12 lock offs
i used a holley 650 carb for the trottle assy.

[DODGEN1]

[DODGEN1]

The motor is a 73 440 out of a motor home. 30 over stage 5 heads compression is 10:1 cam is a mopar 284 duration .484 lift it speced at 108 lda but came in at 106 its 2 degrees advanced. it prefers to run at 3000 rpm
mallory mech dist 20 initial 36 total at 2500rpm
ran 14.7 sec 1/4 mile with this set up
im curious to see where im at now. i battled a fouling plug problem all summer 3 and 5 not sure if it was bad valve giude seals or the oil was not heavy enough. 10-30 went to 20-50 stopped fouling, finaly.

[Imperial73]

10-30 went to 20-50 stopped fouling, finaly.

Personally, I prefer a high-quality 20-50 oil for these engines, like the Kendall GT-1 20W50. Also my local speedshop recommends this for virtually all B & RB engines and uses it for their high-end engines they sell with warranty.

In my former Newport, I used 15W40 but had some small issues, which were over wwhen switching to 20W50.

[Frank]

From what I have read on the Bob is the Oil Guy Forum, it is generally best to run the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity for your climate. See these the following page for more information:

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

[DODGEN1]

thanks

[Steptoe]

I have run std oil no particular brand...castrol, valvline what ever ha been on special at the time...not recycled oil thu....for over 150,oo miles on dedicated LPG in the Camaro
Oh there where special LPG oils additives . filters , Never used them...
The only thing I did do was 10,000 miles AFTER the rebuild added Slick 50, and every 80.000 miles there after
I have used Slick 50 on everything from my Fomula Ford and Off Roading in early 60s, to the wifes toyota corlla and my 1950s 1 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratton Lawn mower...Yeah Slick 50 got sues or something, but I have ssen the results from my race engines etc...
Anyway, We stripped the Camaro engine a yr or so ago...why? an old post way back, another story...
Valve rescession , bore, bearings, cam etc was no more , infact the head guy reconned less than petrol
I did have worn valve guides , but hell what American engine doesnt at 150,000 miles, and even this was only a slight puff on start up.
What Im saying is , use a good std brand oil, forget additives, and special oils...its all marketing BS.

Slick 50 still avalible in the States?