1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:02 pm

ah, i got it backwards. I tried searching for my repair records but nothing yet. I will try the slipping off the vacuum as its running and see what happens. the wires and plugs are recent. i can tell cause they look and feel new still. I will get a spark gap meter and check it out still. and yes, there is no vacuum advance on the distributor as it is electronic. I am going to get an estimate for a timing chain done. i think that's what the engine noise might be. i am glad its not the Mitsubishi motor in it. those you have to partially to fully pull the motor to do.

Mattelderca · Post by **Mattelderca** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:10 pm

Yes Franz, I should have said remove the vacuum source. I will stand corrected.
I still stand by returning the system to "as designed" status. I see in the vacuum diagram that there is a solenoid in the vacuum line going to the vapourizer and VFF30. Franz, could that be a mixture controlling solenoid? I think it is! Correct me if wrong, please, but is the mixer valve used with a controlled vapourizer a rich valve? In this case running without the solenoid connected to the vapourizer cause a rich condition leading to increased fuel consumption? Lots of questions I know, but I see this as a great vehical and wish I owned one like it. I hate to see it maintained in such a way!

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:45 pm

of course i waited till after lunch and now it is raining out... bah.

anyhow no luck on receipt so i will call and ask for a copy.

okay, got under there, pulled the vacuum line off, and it kept running. actually ran for 5 minutes before i said hell with it and shut it off. So I assume that is one part i will need to take apart....

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:08 pm

Okay, got a copy of the bill today. it says he put in 1 NPN101 fitting, 1 NPN102 fitting, 1 VFF30 rebuilt, 1 AV14-3 Air, 2 Air shims, 1 E diaphragm, 1 Used Cover (the E cover) and shop supplies obviously.

says he did the R&R lock off (seized fitting), R&R converter cover, R&R air, exhaust analyze & set.

should i give him a call about the VFF-30 not working? its only done 7k km (4400 miles). I'll read over it on the book of Franz's in the meanwhile.

EDIT: to change out the VFF30, do i need to empty the tank?

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:35 pm

Okay, did the VFF-30 test again today, it worked. Also read online that on the model E mixer lids if you push the spring in while running the motor should slow in revs and stumble. well it didn't do that immediately and i thought that was the problem until i gave it a couple good quick presses and then it started to work, so then i did it some more and it stumbled some more. finally it started doing it right just like on the pdf i found. I wonder if it was just not set or seating right or such. I think i am gonna do more investigative work on it still.

Steptoe · Post by **Steptoe** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:03 pm

to change out the VFF30, do i need to empty the tank?

No, turn off the valve/tap at the tank fire the car up till it emtis the lines and cuts out...then strat to dismantle the back plate, loosen off screws evenly and slow.
Depending on how much room u have and length of LPG line, u maynot gave to disconect the LPG line fittings.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:52 pm

Well the vff30 decided to work now. I talked to the guy that did it and he said to reset the excess pressure valve to close tank valve, run till it dies, then open the valve and i should hear a snap sound then to close and open 2 more times. so i did and it worked. then I pushed the primer button on the J lid while it was running and it seemed to free it up. now it has been running nice and smooth and is being very well behaved. I think there might have been something in the line from when the vff30 was replaced and now it got through. I spent the day cleaning the van and even washed under the hood. I also unplugged and inspected and plugged in all the spark plug wires again and they all looked in very good condition. I took a couple pics and tried a video but it was getting dark and my camera died... so here is a pic and a short video of the start up using the command start. was going to use that then one with just the key so you guys could see the difference it is in starting... ah well maybe this weekend.. Anyhow:

And van starting. I actually circled to the exhaust, but it died and cut off sooner then expected.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 3:33 am

Well, all was fine and dandy till i filled up today. now it starts normally, but then slowly revs up a bit, revs up a bit, revs up a bit, till i think it feels like 2000, or 2500 rpm's and it just sits there. I thought it was cause it was so hot today (30+Celsius / 87F+) but i was at a friends place till 1 am and it has cooled off to 15c/58F and it still dose that... Anyone else think i got some gunk or debris in the fuel system and that is what has been causing all my problems?

franz · Post by **franz** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:44 am

Go back through my manual and try the pressure testing steps. That should either confirm or rule out if there is a fuel supply problem.

Franz

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:11 pm

Van has been parked for now. I will get to it again when i am less stressed out and finished moving between jobs.

I am not sure why, but it also lost fuel overnight. went from just off of full to under 3/4. and the bleed is not leaking.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 2:04 am

well its 2 years later and I pulled it out of the bush, threw a battery in it, hit the key to see if it would crank over and it started up right away!

still doing that fast idle thing. Starts up normal then just slowly revs up. Really hard on the van putting it into gear. It makes it jump.

Now is this a lockoff problem or do i just need to adjust a setting somewhere? Hit the highway and it keeps creeping up. was doing 140 and didnt even realize it! had lots of pep in that range to.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:41 pm

well its a few months later again. my diesel mini truck is acting up so i have to drive the van again. this time the tank was near empty. i just made it to the station okay. got it filled up and now it runs okay. idle is perfect and all. anyone ever have that happen before?

C3H8 · Post by **C3H8** » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:25 pm

One of three main reasons will cause an unstable or high idle.

1. Stuck throttle cable
2. Idle air control stuck open. It is the electric motor on the fron tof your throttle body
3. You have a pretty major vacuum leak. Unlikely as the engine would be very hard to start and would likely stall frequently. Also a vacuum leak that would idle at 140 K would be audible.

I would look at the idle air motor first.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:27 pm

throttle cable works properly, and no audible vacuum leak under the hood. I will check into the idle air control. would explain the easy 140km/hr on the highway i would assume.

The_Stuff · Post by **The_Stuff** » Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:03 am

you're talking about the part on the "front" side right? two screws holding it on and the connector is on an angle?

Alternative Fuels

1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

pressures

Re: 1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

Re: 1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

Re: 1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

Re: 1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.

Re: 1988 Plymouth Voyager - Factory propane.