Cam selection for 350 chevy small block

[GasE150]

Hi Kikkegek

Regarding temp...those engines were designed to run at 80 deg.
An aside is that those waterpumps can pump as bad as 30% to one bank and 70% to the other so it is not uncommon for one bank to be running seriously hotter than the other.
For good performance and economy this needs to be rectified!

There are many issues regarding temp at speed.....most vehicles drafting characteristics tend to work such that somewhere around 90kmph the air "decides" it is easier to flow around the vehicle than to pass through the radiator.

I have been hand modifying those waterpump housings for years and hand making reverse curve vaned impellers for may years to improve the bank to bank flow imbalance, improve pump pressure, increase flow rates and reduce cavitation.

Cooling systems are a huge anomoly in the industry with blown head gaskets often being the result of localised overheating going on without the knowlege of the driver as the guage often reads "normal" when things inside are really not performing as we would percieve.

One way to test for localised overheating is to monitor cooling system pressure! It can demonstrate easily that with a 16LB radiator cap, you should be able to cruise with 10 or 11 psi in your system.
The pressure on the suction side of the pump should not run at less than 6 or 7 psi.
If your running at cap pressure all the time.....its because you have little hot spots boiling away creating the pressure.( not good! )

First thing to check is thermostat opening height and with a "calibrated mercury themometer".....measure the temp the thermostat starts to close as that should be the running temp of your engine. Personally, I use USA made dayco thermostatas as I have had 100% success rate with them.

Next thing to check is the distance from the vanes to the wiping face of the pump...it should only be a few thousandths of an inch.

I can give you more info if required including pics.....

Hope some of this helps.

Cheers

Derk

[kikkegek]

he guys,

thanks for the replys. I did some research on engine temperature and found that the location of the sensor in the heads just reads warmer temperatures then I read before. Before I had the sensor in ht ethermostat housing. I checked with an IR thermometer. The thermostat housing will read 7075C when the heads are reading 90-95...so about 20K difference...which makes sense, since the spot in the heads is right next to the exhausts.

I have driven the engine now for over 300 miles and swapped engine oil and filter recently. The oil and filter had no signs of engine wear from breaking it in, so guess that is good.

I also noticed that the engine now runs 5-10K cooler with the fresh oil. I had an extra break-in additive in the previous oil.

Engine runs fine now and I need to start tweaking the timing to get the most out of it